(aka The Andes are HUGE, Part II)
When I say “Argentina” what is the first thought that comes to mind…? Well, there’s The Tango (check), and Gauchos (check), Evita Peron (check), and Carne Asado Argentino (oh baby, Big Check). And, of course, MALBEC! This is a wine blog after all. (Side note: you may want to add “Scorpions” to your Argentina Checklist. No, not the German rock band. Let’s just say that I get a little worked up when I find a cricket in the house, so you can just imagine the high-pitched, dog whistle-like scream I let out when I spotted the scorpion in the bathroom one night of the trip. Exactly.)
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| View from hotel room, codename: Scorpion |
Where was I….? Ah yes, Malbec. By far the most widely planted red grape in Argentina (with 84,000 acres under vine), it makes up over 30% of all red grapes planted. Once a very important part of the red Bordeaux blend (along with Cabernet and Merlot), it is still the backbone of the wines from the Cahors area in South West France. Malbec was brought to Argentina in the mid-1800s and basically given a new lease on life in Argentina. If picked before maturity, Malbec tends to taste herbaceous and astringent. But given the warm climate and abundant sunshine in Argentina, it allows the Malbec grape to reach its true potential – full-bodied, deeply colored, rich and spicy, with dark fruit flavors, juiciness and a velvety texture.
France may be the place of origin of the Malbec grape, but Argentina is where Malbec truly shines – it is now home to nearly 70% of the Malbec vineyards in the world. But there is much more to the Wines of Argentina than Malbec. The more medium-bodied and juicy red grape Bonarda (#2 behind Malbec in plantings at 17%) and the floral white Torrontés (19% of white) are also regional specialties. Chardonnay has also had much success (15%), as well as Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Syrah (12%). And there are some extremely interesting sparkling wines coming out of Argentina as well.
Most of the winemaking regions of Argentina have a hot, arid, continental climate. The Andes Mountains (have I mentioned they are HUGE?) provide a barrier from the prevailing Easterly winds and create a significant rain shadow over the area (meaning that the Andes stop the rain from going further east). Thanks to this proximity to the Andes Mountains, most of Argentina’s wine growing regions are situated at high altitudes in the foothills, with vineyards planted at an average of 2,000 to 3,000 feet. It is the cooler temperatures at these high altitudes that allow the grapes grown there to ripen evenly (instead of becoming overripe), making for wines of consistently high quality.
I would be remiss if we spoke about Argentina and I didn’t mention the name CATENA. Bodega Catena Zapata was founded in 1902 by Italian immigrant Nicola Catena. His grandson, Nicolás Catena Zapata, is considered a pioneer of the Argentina wine industry due to his use of European winemaking techniques which revolutionized winemaking here. Now the 4th generation, his daughter Laura, is at the helm. She spends six months of the year as Managing Director of the winery in Argentina, and six months of the year in San Francisco as an Emergency Medicine Physician, graduating magna cum laude from Harvard and then attaining her medical degree from Stanford. (Yes indeed, you read that right: Dr. Catena. You go girl.). Many consider the Catena wines to be the benchmark for Argentina wine.
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| Bodega Catena Zapata |
The winery itself is located in an area of Mendoza called Luján de Cuyo, within a Mayan-pyramid inspired building. Our visit there consisted of tasting the Catena Alta line (Chardonnay, Cabernet and Malbec, all polished, balanced and delicious), the 2012 Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino (killer, highest vineyards in the Uco Valley, black currant, licorice, and a little pencil-lead minerality, supple with medium tannins on the finish), and the 2013 Catena Zapata Nicolas (80% Cabernet/20% Malbec, black cherry, black currant, licorice, minty-eucalyptus, lots of structure but needed a bit more time to age). Like I said, benchmark wines.
We drove down the road a piece (a BIG piece – as we found out, nothing is a ‘quick drive’ in Mendoza), to an area called Vista Flores, which is south of Luján de Cuyo and closer to the Andes (3,500+ feet above sea level). There we visited Ernesto Catena Vineyards. Ernesto is the eldest son of Nicolás Catena and he founded his winery in 2000. Ernesto has lived around the world, completed a degree in Computer Science and Economy, a Masters in Design in Milan, and a degree in history in London. He considers himself a “wine poet” and is defined by many as the bohemian side of the Catena family. Ernesto “believes in organic and biodynamic agriculture and the connection between us, nature and the universe.”
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| Winemaking within the vineyards (and my fat head) |
We walked around the vineyards, through the beautiful rose garden, to the small field winery built in the shape of a comet, then to the giant vine labyrinth. We even saw where adobe amphorae are filled with wine and buried for one year in the soil, then consumed in a celebration with members of the team in an ancient Inca ritual of reciprocity. It was magical (and more than a little bit mystical). We then sat down next to the water for a lovely lunch while tasting four wines in the Ernesto Catena range that afternoon. First, the Alma Negra “Misterio” Brut Nature Rosé sparkling wine, made in the traditional method (like Champagne) where the 2nd fermentation takes place in the bottle. Amazing, fresh and quite dry ("Brut Nature" = no dosage of sugar) with light flavors of strawberry and cranberry. Delightful. Next, the Ánimal Malbec, from ‘natural vineyards’ 100% certified organic and biodynamic. Violets, red raspberry, touch of smoke and a little clove. Then, the Tahuan Cabernet Sauvignon from old vines, black currant, black pepper, medium-plus bodied with well-integrated tannins. Last (but not least) the 2015 Alma Negra “M Blend” (M as in Mysterioso), this wine “happened by mistake” with an unlabeled tank, the blend unknown. Black plum, rich and round with bittersweet cocoa notes. All different styles of wine, all fantastic and highly recommended. Just be careful not to step on any scorpions.
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| Ernesto Catena Vineyards - the Andes in the background |
Ruta Provincial 92
M5515 Vista Flores, Mendoza
+54 261 4964929
